Sunday, October 4, 2009

Mercedes Sosa 1935-2009

Gracias a la vida que me ha dado tanto
Me dio dos luceros que cuando los abro
Perfecto distingo lo negro del blanco
Y en el alto cielo su fondo estrellado
Y en las multitudes el hombre que yo amo.

Gracias a la vida que me ha dado tanto
Me ha dado el sonido y el abecedario
Con el las palabras que pienso y declaro
Madre, amigo, hermano y luz alumbrando,
La ruta del alma del que estoy amando

Gracias a la vida que me ha dado tanto
Me ha dado la marcha de mis pies cansados
Con ellos anduve ciudades y charcos
Playas y desiertos, montañas y llanos
Y la casa tuya, tu calle y tu patio.

Gracias a la vida que me ha dado tanto
Me dio el corazon que agita su marco
Cuando miro el fruto del cerebro humano
Cuando miro el bueno tan lejos del malo
Cuando miro el fondo de tus ojos claros.

Gracias a la vida que me ha dado tanto
Me ha dado la risa y me ha dado el llanto
Asi yo distingo dicha de quebranto
Los dos materiales que forman mi canto
Y el canto de ustedes que es el mismo canto
Y el canto de todos que es mi propio canto.


Wednesday, July 22, 2009

El Fin/The End


El Sur

Desde uno de tus patios haber mirado las antiguas estrellas,
desde el banco de la sombra haber mirado esas luces dispersas
que mi ignorancia no ha aprendido a nombrar
ni a ordenar en constelaciones,
haber sentido el círculo del agua en el secreto aljibe,
el olor del jazmín y la madreselva,
el silencio del pájaro dormido,
el arco del zaguán, la humedad-esas cosas, acaso, son el poema.

- Jorge Luis Borges

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

One more

I could not sleep last night and I thought I would seeing as how I have not slept well the past few weeks. First it was because I got a bad cold that turned into a loud and awful cough which kept me up at night. With the swine flu spreading I was a bit nervous so I gave in and had the doctor make a house call. I don't have swine flue but I did recieve antibiotics to help me get over my cold.


Then I was then stressed as I tried to finish up the academic side of experience. I had to write a ten page single-spaced paper for my Latin American Social Thought course. I tried to tackle the early Argentine political leader, Juan Manuel de Rosas, and famous intelectual Juan Bautista Alberdi. It was a little mess of an essay but showed effort and I passed. I am finally done with all of my classes in both FLACSO and the University of Buenos Aires.

So last night, tired but exhilriated to finally be done with school, I went to a tango class and milonga on Sarmiento called La Catedral. It's a big open room with a rickety wooden floor and a high ceiling. It makes me think of a barn more than a cathedral. There is an odd sort of chandelier made out of metal and light bulbs hanging over the dance floor. The music is mix of electrotango and more traditional tango and milonga music. My friends and I had a good time dancing, watching, and listening. I even tried to lead (unsuccessfully) while dancing with my friend Corrina as there was a shortage of acceptable men to tango with and you know it takes two...

I returned to my house at three sleepy and ready to crawl into bed. It sounds like a late hour but considering the milonga started around midnight, it's almost early. However, sleep was far off. Intstead, the butterflies that frequent my stomach fluttered around so recklessly my body was tricked into giving anxious thoughts undeserved attention.

Perhaps it's the fact that we wrapped up everything quickly because of the swine flu and canceled what would have been more a more official ending. Or maybe it is all the goodbyes. My friend from day one is gone, she left almost a month ago. Lizzie left yesterday. I instinctively went to text her to see if she wanted to catch a movie but then I remembered. The new friend who actually gets what I mean when I talk about those butterflies is back in the US. In some ways, I am glad they are all heading back before me. It helps me realize that this experience would not be the same without them.


It is strange to spend a signifigant amount of time somewhere but know the entire time that you will be leaving. I think that it can change the way some people interact with you and the way you interact with others. It is hard to feel settled. I have been in Argentina for almost half a year but now I know I'm going back and there are constant reminders. I went to the luandry mat for the last time and am trying to make my clean clothes last until the 22nd. I'm out of cotton balls but won't bother buying more. I am trying to organize my bedroom so it won't be too hard to pack it all up in a few days. I've been throwing out Argentine fiction stories rather guiltily. I know I won't read them but I think I should. I'm finding bus tickets and tango class flyers and putting some of them in a pile to keep as souviners and others into the wastebasket. I'm making coffee dates with people I want to see before I go and thinking of "one more times" to do. One more helado, one more trip to San Telmo, one more walk to the park-one more week left here in Buenos Aires.

One more week and I am sad, happy, scared, ready, and anxious all at once. I am sad not to be home with everyone and I am sad to think of leaving a place that has became a sort of second home. And yet, it's worth it- even the anxiety. I would much rather know and love all while knowing that there will be hard goodbyes than not. The bitter taste is acompanied by a sweet one. Just like tango that is meant to be an expression of sadness, it is beautiful. I have to remind myself of that. I was anxious before coming here and look how wonderful it turned out. What is next and new is sure to be just as hard but just as good. Maybe I'll sleep well tonight.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Daydreamer

I live in possibly one of the prettiest parts of my barrio, Caballitos. While most people in this city live in crowded apartments, I’m in a big old house that is full of windows and the sort of sounds only well-worn homes make- like the way the steps up from the staircase’s landing always creak and the doors knobs always squeak.
Walking around my neighborhood at night is peaceful. Fall has caused the leaves begin to fall and the way they flutter in the streetlights makes me think Buenos Aires is playing up its “Paris of the South” side.
There is a house around the corner that I especially like. The patio has Mexican tile and there are vines running up along its walls. It looks like something taken from the part of my head that stores up the images my mind gets when I read Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s novels. I want to buy my tiled palace so I can stay here in Buenos Aires forever. I am happy to dream of having my own place quiet enough to write and sketch and mess around with paint and canvas but still be close to my cafes, parks, bookstores, and only doors down from Claudia and Eduardo so I could keep taking tango lessons and wandering off to milongas whenever my gringa feet fancy.

I’ve always been a daydreamer. I’m always planning and thinking and wondering what the future holds. Adventures and plans are mapped out in my mind a million different times and I travel through them when my mind has moments to wander- in the subte, on the bus, or at night. Yet, a good deal of the time there is a bit of fear wrapped around what it is I think I want. I get scared I won’t get to go all the places I want to go. Instead of hopeful I feel tense and want to selfishly guard them.

When I get like this, more moody than usual and “emo” (as one friend described me in this state), I think about going home. I have to confess I am a little bit homesick. I’m greedy for emails and skype dates. I feel forgotten easily these days and more far-away than usual- as if I am suddenly further down below in the southern hemisphere than I was before.
The fact that I am missing summer makes me even more wistful. I have been thinking about the way the wind blows through the field in the summer, the grass growing tall, and the tractors mowing it down again. I want dragonflies and raspberries. I crave string beans and zucchini from Mr. McDonald’s garden. I feel like breakfast on the porch and morning swims. I want to be home as the eight of us begin to congregate and return to 175 Sykes Road.
People tend to think I do not get homesick. I find this understandable as I used to pretend I was incapable of such a feeling. But the truth is that I used to get nervous going to friends’ houses for the night and waited almost everyday at camp till I was safe in my sleeping bag with the lights turned out to cry. In Jamaica, I taped pictures of my family on the cement walls of the church classroom we were sleeping in even though it was a mere two weeks. When I went to the DR I felt sick to my stomach at the thought of staying there for six whole weeks. In my fifteen year old mind they stretched out like an eternity.
Janet can attest to the fact that I was aching to leave Gordon this December and sleep away the winter in my own iron-framed bed. I smiled happily as Austin piled Janet and me into her car to make the long drive home to the North Country from Wenham once exams were finally over. Books, clothes, and college things stacked and crammed every which way possible and me- giddy with excitement at the thought of going home for Christmas. I’m surprised we didn’t fall out in a heap when, like the good little New Englanders we’ve learned to be, we stopped at “Dunks” for the much needed sustenance one finds in coffee, bagels, and munchkins.
But before I knew it, my extended Christmas break was over and I was cramming my massive Oxford Spanish dictionary into my suitcase and dramatically playing “Another Suitcase, Another Hall” from Evita on my itunes. It was time to leave again. I felt funny as déjà-vu leaving moments played out familiarly: the drive through the mountains to NYC, trying to calm my stomach in attempts to enjoy the time in the city with family and friends, and the unsatisfying airport time before boarding the flight.
The thing is, I always hate leaving and I then I always hate leaving wherever it is I left home to go to. Life is funny that way. But being homesick isn’t- this yearning for the known makes me feel misplaced and being misplaced makes me feel vulnerable. I hate that word, by the way. It is a word people always use when they want you to tell them things- deep things, private things; it implies being honest and being weak. I do not like vulnerable. Open is one thing but susceptible runs over lines I used to think were much more carefully drawn. But the truth is, I am vulnerable. And I am weak. I get anxious about things easily and am sensitive. I analyze and stay up with my thoughts at night.

As it always is when you go somewhere new, or take hard courses, or step outside the norms, you begin to learn. Sometimes you learn wonderful things, like Spanish, the vos tense, and tango. You also meet amazing people who will begin to love you. You can live life here, in Argentina, or wherever it is you went so very far to reach. This once-foreign life begins to feel permanent and constant. New and unknown becomes a relatively known and even comfortable reality.
But there are also hard things to learn, like who you find yourself without the safe walls of your school or the hands of the people who know you best and love you most to hold. You might not know how you are being shaped or you might not know how to respond to every aspect of the experience.
Structures you thought were concrete start to fall like sand castles. What you thought was of the heart might turn out to be cultural and constructed. Beliefs, whether political or spiritual, easily look irrelevant when held up against a different light. That is not to say that one finds truth when outside the familiar or that one knows to be truth is not true. However, every aspect of your being has more potential to be stretched and challenged to the limits. Doubt and fear find easier footing within one’s mind when one is, yes, vulnerable.
When you think you’ve lost what you found to be the most valuable parts of your life, you grieve. It is possible to be sad or even depressed in cities as lovely and as interesting as Buenos Aires. What you lose can be what makes you feel misplaced and then homesick.

Mostly I want people who know me. I want them because I love them and I miss them but there is an ulterior motive- I want them to tell me who I am. I want all this hard work of finding out what my identity is and where it lies to be done for me. I want instant assurance that I am okay and that I am living my life “right.”

However, affirmation is not going to provide me with anything lasting. It is only a temporary assurance and not necessarily an honest one. I forget sometimes that they haven’t been here with me the entire time. We relate to each other as we always have but somehow the interaction is different because I am here and they are in places relatively unknown (home changes a good deal in months and years) or in other new completely unknown places. So we get each other but we don’t get it all anymore because each of our perspectives is strongly influenced by the very different and varied worlds around us. That’s okay but when you want to know that the world you live in isn’t crazy, it is not necessarily welcomed.

These are all relatively scary and frightening discoveries and I have found myself easily burdened and weighed down by them. Yet, when I really look closely I realize that they are the same worn out struggles, familiar doubts, and old questions that I have carried for the past few years. If I do not like what I see it is just because I see it here in a harsher light. I am forced to evaluate. I have started to process aspects and parts of my life that have felt so natural and instinctual I forgot they required attention and understanding.
So as low as this missing and questioning makes me feel, I have recently become to the conclusion that it is good. Not because this is in and of itself is good but because I am dealing with it and as I have begun to, the fear and anxiety have slowly started to fade.
I am headed towards another new place, a place that does not require leaving. I am heading towards something deeper and personal than I have yet known- a place more profound than dreams. I am not there yet but I am confident I will be. I am grateful because I think the real journey starts here.

Saturday, May 30, 2009

Rainy Buenos Aires

Well kids, la Clarita is getting tired. That is what happens when one gets a cold, is given loads of homework, and you find a general lack of communication with your homeland rather frustrating.
Tangent alert- Claudia bought me peanut butter which I hadn't had in months. It was an exciting moment for all involved. I wandered around the kitchen eating it straight out of the jar saying things like "My homeland" and "the taste of my childhood" in Spanish (of course) and sighing happily.

Today was rainy and nasty and let's just say my mood matched the weather which meant I could not stay in the house despite my stuffy nose and tired eyes. So to better my dull spirits, I finally went to la MALBA- Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires and snuck around taking shockingly un-artistic pictures of great artists' work.

The highlight was finally seeing one of Frieda Kahlo's original works. She fascinates me which is obviously why I dressed up like her for Halloween... blame my college for celebrating that pagan holiday.



I had given myself a uni-brow with mascara but ended up rubbing it off due to my lack confidence and the strange suspicion that nobody knew who I was attempting to channel.

After the museum, I amused myself taking more mostly blurry (I was in a taxi for a good portion of this creative burst) pictures of Buenos Aires in the rain.


This city never ceases to surprise me with it's strange loveliness when I least expect it.

Saturday, April 18, 2009

Tierra del Fuego

I spent Semana Santa in Ushuaia, the southern most city in the world located in the Argentine province of Tierra del Fuego. The town was small and reminded me of Lake Placid. The views, however, at the end of the world are out of this world!


The walk back from town to our hostel. We got last-minute reservations but La Posta was a great hostel to stay at. We met wonderful people from Ireland, England, Denmark, New Zeland, the US and, of course, Argentina!
Anyone from the North Country can see why I felt so at home in this small town. The cold fresh air and the rain made me feel like I was on Skyes Road during springtime.

This is the harbor. The Andes are in the background. We met some Irish men who were planning on trekking through the mountains. It sounded like an adventure but honestly, I preferred our hostel with hot showers and coffee and media lunas for breakfast every morning.

This is my favorite picture I took in the National Park. We met up with two Argentines who were also staying in our hostel and ended up doing a three hour hike with us. We had a good time speaking Spanish and sharing mate. The four of us rented a car on Sunday to go explore the lakes.


Diego, me, and Emma. Mauricio is taking the photo. It was nice to make new friends. Diego and Mauricio let me practice my Spanish sarcasm skills with them.


This was the first Easter sunday I did not attend a church service. I thought a good deal about my family and Nueva Vida, the church I spent Easter with in Tijuana last year, however, I am not sure I could think of a better way to celebrate salvation.

It was a wonderful week and everything worked out perfectly. The people we met, the weather, etc. Now I'm back in Buenos Aires and trying to buckle down to get my work done.